Category: Australia

Part 2. Exploring Queensland

Bribie Island

Queensland is a pretty unique part of Australia. It’s got everything from city to beaches to rainforest, all within an hour’s drive. Bribie Island is one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever seen. It is pristine and unspoilt. One of the reasons for this may be that it can only be accessed by 4 wheel drive vehicles. Luckily for us, my nephew drives one of these. He has lived in Queensland for several years and kindly took some time off work to spend with us. When I stepped out of his jeep, I stood on the beach and looked in every direction. Not a single soul for miles. I experienced what can only be described as a Robinson Crusoe moment.

Surfers Paradise

Then there’s Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast. Which could probably be described as Bribie Island on speed. The kind of place Robinson Crusoe goes when he’s had too much serenity and wants to party. It’s got the beautiful beaches but also has endless bars, eateries and night clubs. Not to mention some serious high rises. I can’t complain about these however because we had an apartment on the 34th floor and the views were something else!

Many happy hours were spent on that balcony, catching up with family. We had breakfast, lunch and dinner here while enjoying the view, the music (Ed doesn’t go anywhere without his Bose speaker), the sea breeze and more than a few drinks. Even the occasional storm was a joy to watch from this vantage point.

Springbrook National Park

I never really understood how it could be possible to have a sub-tropical rainforest less than an hour’s drive from the Gold coast. Geography isn’t a strong point of mine. But it was there that we spent the most unique night of our visit. As we drove away from the coast and into the hinterland, I was struck by the lush greenery all around us. I had a preconceived notion of Australia as an arid, dusty country. I now realise that it is so vast that it has every possible variation of climate, depending on which region you are in. As the car climbed the mountain roads, the grassland gave way to forest on both sides as we entered the area of the majestic Springbrook National Park. On arrival, we parked the car and loaded our luggage into the carts provided and pulled them the short distance to The Mouse’s House Retreat. And if there was any doubt that we were now walking on the wild side, the sight of two large snakes at the edge of the path quickly dispelled that notion.

Closely followed by what I believe is known as a skink

Our accommodation would be best described as a 3 storey luxury cabin built in the style of a tree house.

The veranda projected out into the canopy of the trees and the growth was so dense that the sun barely penetrated the leaves. We settled down with drinks and some snacks and I tried to look relaxed while nervously glancing up now and again to see if the friendly neighbourhood pythons were going to drop in. The rainforest was surprisingly quiet with only the occasional bird song to be heard. Then as the light faded the critter chorus began. It started with the bird calls, followed closely by the toads and cicadas, accompanied by the occasional screech from God knows what! The cacophony grew to a deafening crescendo and then, as quickly as it started, it stopped and all was quiet again. It hadn’t been dark for long when some visitors arrived. The veranda was illuminated but all around us was blackness. The branch of a tree seemed to be moving but it was hard to tell if it was my imagination stepping up a gear. Then a dark coloured creature the size of a cat but resembling a racoon appeared and made its way slowly along the handrail.

It was a possum and apparently they have gotten use to visitors of the human variety and are quite partial to crackers. They certainly caught our attention and were the main guests for the rest of the evening.

Numinbah Nature Reserve

On the way back from the Mouse’s House we stopped off to take in some of the breathtaking scenery. The photo below is taken from the rim of an ancient (and dormant) volcano. The fertile volcanic soils, high humidity and rainfall provide all the elements needed for a sub tropical rainforest to survive. At least that’s what the information board said. In that moment, the whole rainforest thing made sense! Over millennia the area evolved to become what is now the beautiful Numinbah Nature Reserve, its ridges forming part of the border between the states of Queensland and New South Wales. Home to ancient trees, rare plants and exotic fauna, looking down at it is just as pleasurable as being in it.

We only spent one night in this location but it was enough to trigger a realisation of the unique biodiversity of this part of Australia. While people go about their everyday business in the city, a short distance away a whole other world exists. One that was there long before us and should be there long after we are gone. I now have a greater appreciation of the growing awareness of the detrimental effects of climate change in Australia and elsewhere. The future of these ecosystems hang in the balance and once they’re gone, they’re gone. Food for thought…

Byron Bay

No mention of New South wales would be complete without reference to Byron Bay. It is the most easterly point on mainland Australia. The coast consists of yet more stunning beaches but unfortunately the day of our trip was a bit of a washout so I reluctantly left my camera in the car. However, that didn’t stop us seeking out what was once named Australia’s number one secret destination in Australian Traveller magazine’s 100 Incredible Travel Secrets of Australia. Given the effort it took to reach the secluded Whites Beach at Broken Head, its status as a secret location was no surprise. We (Ed) negotiated several miles of washed out ‘road’ (in a VW Polo!) before descending several hundred steps that led to a crescent shaped cove bounded by rocks and palm trees. On a sunny day this would be the stuff of Bounty adverts. Sorry if you’re too young to remember them! I will always remember the 6 of us making our way down those steps in our swimwear in the rain, each carrying our drink of choice. We passed a diehard surfer coming in the opposite direction. I could just about make out his quizzical expression through the fogged up lenses of my rain-covered glasses. “Nice day for it” he said but I can only guess what he was really thinking!

As for the actual beach town of Byron Bay, it has a laid back hippie vibe and is home to artists musicians and the odd dropout. Not to mention the actor Chris Hemsworth. That’s one you will know if you’re young. I had to ask!

And as a very fitting end to our day, the sun obliged with a brief appearance which allowed me to capture a shot of the iconic Byron Bay Lighthouse. Perfect end to the day.

This blog could quite easily become a book if I included everything we did but just a few other memorable moments….

The trip down under would not have been as memorable if it hadn’t been for all the effort that people went to for us. They really did go the extra mile! As for our hosts, Harry and Ria, the extent of their hospitality was humbling. We couldn’t have felt more welcome. Sometimes the extent of the hospitality left me with a hangover but when the wine is such good quality, well what can you do? And while we’re on the subject of drink, after a night at Jim’s house (he’s Irish), I felt like I was a connoisseur of single malt whiskey. And it’s always nice to sample some of the old ‘milk’ from back home (that’s right Jim, the stuff the ‘milkman’ used to deliver!). As for Harry’s steaks, well as the man said, “you had to be there”.

Every day spent in Australia was special. Not just because it was spent in the company of my daughter. Different aspects of it reminded me of various other countries but it has a distinct character all of its own. If I was asked to describe what that unique feature is, I would struggle to put it down on paper. It’s not just the sights and sounds, the light and climate, the people and the easy going pace of life. But a combination of all of these things. The one tangible and inescapable fact is that it is far away! 10,300 miles to be exact. But it’s not just about the miles. It’s about how we perceive separation between loved ones. Somehow the length of time it takes to reach them seems to be what defines distance.That awareness seemed ever present and is the only negative thing I could say about this beautiful part of the world. For young people the opportunities are endless and the quality of life exceptional. I would highly recommend it as a starting point to experience a lifestyle that isn’t found everywhere but it’s a bridge too far for me. I will always be glad that I experienced it and hopefully will visit again in the not too distant future. In the meantime, I have the memories…and the photos.

Part 1. The arrival. Brisbane.

It seems that all of the longest journeys I undertake these days are dictated by my youngest daughter. Not content with spending a year in the USA, she has decided to make Australia her home for the foreseeable future. Because of the distance (10,000miles) the Land of Oz would never have been on my radar. But blood ties are a powerful motivator.

So, at the end of January we set off on the marathon flight to the Land Down Under. At the time of writing, the Coronavirus is world news but when we started the journey it wasn’t much of a concern. At least not until boarding the plane on the first leg-Heathrow, London to Singapore. Being the Chinese New Year, a significant portion of the passengers were making the journey to celebrate with family there. The abundance of mask-wearing passengers was slightly disconcerting but I was determined not to let anything interfere with my joyful anticipation of seeing my daughter for the first time in a year and a half.

13 hours to Singapore, followed by 7.5 hours from Singapore to Brisbane and we walked out into a balmy 30 degree Celsius (90 degrees Fahrenheit) morning. The fact that 24 hours earlier we left a wet and cold (5 degree Celsius) Belfast, made this the first in a series of pleasant surprises.

I had seen some photos, taken from the roof of the apartment block where Tiarna and Eduan live and thought it looked like a nice place but seeing it for myself was a real treat. The view of the Brisbane skyline was impressive during the day but once night fell it was stunning!

Our second day in Australia was ‘Australia Day’ and coincidentally, Ed’s birthday. So, if ever there was an excuse for a party, this was it. Having said that, the Aussies are a bit like the Irish-they don’t need an excuse! Now, in Ireland we normally celebrate birthdays (and every other occasion) in the dry confines of a house, hotel or bar. So it was a whole new experience to celebrate the occasion/s in a swimming pool!

This was our first real taste of Australian hospitality. Though it would be more accurate to call it South African hospitality. The couple hosting the party and who would later share their home with us for a week, were Ed’s parents. They left South Africa around 20 years ago and now have a new life in Australia. Their story is typical of many nationalities who now call this country home. To illustrate this, only 2 of the people in the above photo were born in Australia!