When the opportunity to cruise to the Arctic Circle arises, you need to grasp it. You know if you don’t, you will probably regret it. And when the cruise ship is leaving from the city you live in, meaning no flights or long drives? It’s a done deal. And so, we set sail from Belfast, stopping en route to pick up more passengers in Liverpool before heading north to Norway.
We sailed with Ambassador Cruise Line on board the ‘Ambition’. It is smaller than some of the modern giants and holds around 1,200 passengers. It lacked some of the glitz associated with the bigger ships but the cabins were very clean with ample space and the crew were friendly and attentive. The food was of a high standard with plenty of variety.
Sunset from the lower deck as we left the North Sea and entered the Norwegian Sea.
After two days at sea, we docked at Alesund on Norway’s west coast, around 400 km north of Bergen and 1,220 km from Liverpool. The town is colourful and picturesque. The houses and buildings are uniform in appearance because they were all built between 1904 and 1907, after the town was destroyed by a fire. The timber construction and high winds on the night of the fire, ensured total destruction. The town was rebuilt in brick, stone and mortar in the Art Noveau style.
Alesund. Photo taken from a vantage point above the town. A steep climb (418 steps) but worth it for this view.
Our next stop was Narvik, 1,200 km north of Alesund. The town was of strategic importance during World War II because of its coastal position and its rail link to Sweden. This rail link was our main reason for leaving the ship. Not for any historical reason but rather to view the striking scenery from the train that travels from Narvik to Abisko in Sweden.
Rombaken Fjord. Not easy taking photos from a moving train but at least no one objected to me hanging out the window.
Rombaken Fjord. This shot reminded me of NW Donegal in Ireland. Both are likely the result of the same glacial processes that carved out landscapes 12,000 years ago.
Dramatic skies over the fjord. The suspension bridge in the distance is dwarfed by the enormity of these majestic giants.
Tromso. Now we were inside the Arctic Circle. We had travelled 1,400 km from our first Norwegian port, Alesund and the days were getting decidedly longer. You don’t really know what to expect in the ‘Land of the Midnight Sun’. The further north you go, the brighter the nights, until it’s a kind of twilight around 1am. Then it starts getting bright again! A strange experience and one which makes sleep difficult. I worked shifts years ago and it brought it all back to me. Sleeping during daylight just isn’t natural. I should point out at this stage that our cruise took place in July.
Midnight sun. Watching the sun almost set and then rise again can challenge your perception of reality!
The colourful harbour at Tromso. It was a surprise to me that daytime temperatures inside the Arctic Circle could reach 20 degrees Celsius.
Distinctive colours give ordinary houses character.
Tromso church.
Honningsvag. Our most northerly port. In fact, Honningsvag is the most northerly city in Europe and 1,900 km from Alesund. One thing to note about this place is that, although the sun may not set for weeks on end, it can be misty and fogbound due to its climate and topography. It has unexpectedly mild temperatures due to the North Atlantic Drift, which is a warm sea current that extends the Gulf Stream to these far reaches of Europe. This is also why the ocean here is ice free.
Honningsvag. I’ve never been able to decide why this is my favourite photo from the whole trip. It may have to do with the atmosphere created by the mist and the stillness that provided the reflections.
Even on a rainy day, Honningsvag has a distinct charm and a pace of life that we can only dream of.
The low sun colouring the sky and highlighting the snow capped peaks of the fjord. The houses on the shore are just about visible.
Haugesund was our last port of call. We docked here on the return journey home. It was our most southerly port, situated 550 km south of our first stop, Alesund. The town was lively and had more of a buzz than any of the other ports we called at.
Massachusetts vibes in Haugesund.
Terracotta rooftops and white clapboard houses give Haugesund a bright and uplifting feel.
Nostalgic remnants of another time in Haugesund’s history.
On the edge of town, the character prevails.
The last photo I took as we headed home. An appropriate symbol of a taste of life at sea.
Summary. It was two weeks long and we enjoyed every minute. I would never describe myself as a cruise fan but there are a lot of positive things to be said about them. For me, the main appeal is the opportunity to visit places that would simply be too expensive to visit, once flights, accommodation and meals are factored into the equation. I don’t know exactly how much it would cost to fly to Norway and visit 5 towns or cities and pay for accommodation and food in each of those places. At a guess I would say triple the cost of our cruise.
Tip. If you are travelling alone or as a couple, be aware that you may be dining with strangers. This can be an opportunity to make new friends and enjoy some stimulating conversation. Or, mealtimes may become the time of day that you dread most and end up sneaking to the burger bar to avoid your allocated dining partner who believes that everyone else really does want to hear their views on how to make a million pounds/dollars. Worse still, you could end up acting as a referee to that couple whose favourite pastime is hurling abuse at each other and dessert is a large portion of uncontrollable sobbing. Extreme examples, I admit but these things happen. We travelled with family/friends, so we avoided any of those scenarios. This advice applies to cruises in general. In relation to Norway as a country and a specific experience, I highly recommend it. The scenery is spectacular and the people are friendly with a strong social bias, so a warm welcome is pretty much guaranteed.
Bleeding Dove 