Time of visit: October 2025
We travelled to the Costa Brava in northeastern Spain with David’s Coaches, a company based in the Costa Blanca in the southeastern region of the country. The journey time was around ten hours, broken up by three comfort breaks. While ten hours may sound like a long trek, it wasn’t overly arduous. The scenery along the route, combined with our guide’s repertoire of interesting facts about the various regions we traversed, made it an enjoyable journey. Our itinerary on the five night stay included trips to Girona, Cadaques, Pals and Collioure. My original plan was to publish a piece once I had talked about all locations but to my surprise, retirement is busier than I anticipated and my writing time is limited. So, I will opt for installments, starting with Tossa de Mar, our base for the duration of our trip.
The beach at Tossa de Mar with its striking coloured boats against the backdrop of the old walled town.
A view of the old town from the Torre des Moros (Tower of the Moors) on Can Magí Mountain.
Tossa de Mar is a municipality in Catalonia, in the province of Girona (Gerona), northern Spain. Its history goes back beyond Roman times but the main architectural characteristics range from 12th century onwards. There is a definite hint of France in the air, not surprising since it is less than 100km from the French border. In more recent times, Tossa de Mar was a successful fishing town but in the 1950’s plans were created to develop the town to attract package holiday makers. And so, the daily catch these days is offloaded from buses instead of boats and consists of curious tourists like us, complete with phones, cameras and backpacks.
A catalyst for Tossa de Mar’s transformation came in the form of a Hollywood movie that was filmed here in 1950. It was called Pandora and The Flying Dutchman and starred Ava Gardner, James Mason and bullfighter Mario Cabré. Frank Sinatra also flew in to be with Gardner, reportedly in a jealous rage. In 1998 the town honored the actress with a bronze statue by Girona artist Ció Abellí.
Statue of Ava Gardner taking pride of place in the old town. The highly polished appearance of some parts of the statue is a result of excessive touching. Human behaviour is an enigma sometimes!
A couple taking time to embrace the moment.
Our hotel was a five minute walk to the beach and during that short stroll the streets change from modern and wide to ancient and narrow. It is a relatively compact town and you should be able to see the main sites in a day. The climb to the peak of the old walled town (the Catalan translation is Vila Vella) provides stunning views and is accessible via paths and steps. Unfortunately these may not be adequate for wheelchair users.
Faro de Tossa (Tossa lighthouse) provides a good vantage point from which to view the old walled town and beyond.
The 12th century remnants of the Gothic style church of Saint Vincent.
Tossa de Mar framed by the majestic Stone Pines.
The rocky outcrops that may have inspired the name Costa Brava, Rugged Coast.
No rush here.
The narrow cobbled streets exude charm and the pace is relaxed. Friendly locals working in the shops, bars and restaurants add to the chilled experience. I suspect these spaces may be less enjoyable in peak season during the summer, when the crowds are funneled into the narrow walkways.
Taking a break in the shade of the oleander bush (at least I think it was Oleander).
The character of Tossa de Mar old town is a rich and inspiring one.
One observation I have made in recent times is the surge in ‘selfie tourism’ and Tossa de Mar was awash with selfie seekers. Even in the off peak season there are significant numbers of people striking a dramatic pose at the end of a selfie stick, trying for all their worth to appear nonchalant as they stroll through the narrow streets while a partner records the scene. I find the serious ones the most amusing. The ones who turn up in a flowing designer dress and heels, more suited to a night at the Oscars, and repeat the shoot until they get a result they are happy with, all the while oblivious to the presence of others. I wonder how much of the location is lost on them because they only seem to want a backdrop that will generate views and likes. I also wonder what the old fishermen would make of it all! As I was writing the last couple of sentences, it occurred to me that I sound like a grumpy old man. And maybe that’s the natural way of things. When we are faced with behaviours that are alien to us, we tend to be critical. A note to self-different people enjoy different things! Each to their own. Live and let live etc.
Speaking of which, for those who enjoy walking, Tossa de Mar is on the route of El Camino de Santiago de Compestella (in Catalan, El Cami de Sant Jaume). The subject of the Camino has come up in conversation several times over the years but the closest we’ve ever come to actually doing it, is posing for photographs at the famous scallop markers that direct pilgrims. One of the ladies in the photo below (not saying which one) even bought a hat to wear when her time came to do it. She has subsequently decided that she would be accompanied by too many flying insects and she’s not a big fan of our winged friends. Still, I’m sure the hat will enjoy a suitable debut some day..
If asked what I liked most about Tossa de Mar, it would be the same answer that applies to towns and villages all over Spain. Apart from the simple reward of seeing somewhere for the first time, the enjoyment for me is twofold. Firstly the aesthetic. When I see an old town like Tossa de Mar, I see an ochre stone canvass painted with the colours of the bougainvillea and oleanders, capped with terracotta rooftops. The play of light on the stone. The shadows in the narrow passages, moving slowly across the cobbles, synchronising with the sun as it sinks lower in the sky.
Secondly, I am always intrigued by the human aspect of the place. Who are the owners of the craft shops and galleries? Have their families lived here for generations? What would it have looked like in the days before mass tourism, when the only people making their way through the streets were fishermen and their families? A time when, instead of shops and cafes, there were bakers and net menders. When I ask myself these questions it reminds me that no matter where we go, places are defined by the people who inhabit them. It’s what gives a place soul.
It’s all about the people. This local knows how to blend in. I had taken several photos of this scene before I realised he wasn’t part of the boat’s gear.
Would I recommend Tossa de Mar as a place to visit? Definitely! It’s the perfect base to explore the region. The nearest major airport is Barcelona. Regarding accommodation, I would have no hesitation in recommending The Golden Bahia hotel. Its setting is unremarkable but its location is perfect. The room was clean and comfortable. The food was varied, fresh and of high quality. The staff were extremely friendly and welcoming and a surprising number of them were multilingual. Like everywhere, it can be expensive in peak season but there are offers to be had if you are prepared to visit off season. A lot of the guests were repeat visitors from Ireland, Britain and mainland Europe. A hotel that can continually please such a diverse grouping is doing something right!
View from our hotel room, overlooking the pool area of Golden Bahia.
Next installment coming soon…
Bleeding Dove 