Heroes and Villains

True to my contrary nature, I only spent a short time experiencing the side of Nashville that attracts millions of visitors each year. Don’t get me wrong. If you were spending a few days there, I’d recommend soaking up the music scene and having the odd afternoon beer in the countless honky tonks, enjoying the wealth of talented musicians chasing the big break. But we were passing through and settled for a brief behind the scenes glimpse of the history of ‘Nashborough’ as it was formerly known. See? That’s the type of nerdy info I like! And so, a chance encounter with Nashville Centennial Park taught me more in an afternoon than Google ever could! E.g. As a child I lived for a Saturday morning programme chronicling the adventures of Casey Jones, the driver of a steam train who had more than his fair share of adventures in the course of a working day. So much so that I always believed the character to be mythical. Then I happened upon one of the marble information stones, depicting the various famous and notable sons and daughters of this proud place….

All of a sudden my lazy childhood Saturday morning indulgence became an educational experience!

Numerous memorials of courage, defiance and exemplary acts of kindness and humanitarianism abounded in this place. Some inspiring, others humbling. But the most memorable discovery that day was a stone of granite with an excerpt from Robert Penn Warren’s book The Legacy of the Civil War. It struck a chord with me because it encapsulated the destructive aspects of war. I have come to believe that, in war, there are no Victors or Losers. Only Survivors. Any perceived gains are always outlived and outweighed by the losses. I found his words moving and profound. So much so, that I have read them countless times since that day. They have served to inform and reinforce my views on conflict. And I will always be grateful for that chance encounter in the autumn (Fall) of 2016.

If we do not learn the lessons of history, we are destined to repeat them

Robert Penn Warren’s book, The Legacy of the Civil War, describes how the civil war changed the ‘United States’ forever. Travelling through the southern states and observing the nuances, behaviours and attitudes of people, I sensed that legacy (but that’s another story for another day). Because of the poor quality of the photograph and because I find the words so inspirational, I will make the effort to reproduce them here:

….The civil war is our only ‘felt’ history -history lived in the national imagination. This is not to say that the war is always, and by all men, felt in the same way.Quite the contrary.But this fact is an index to the very complexity, depth and fundamental significance of the event…the civil war was, after all, a civil war..the prototype of all war. For in the persons of fellow citizens who happen to be the enemy, we meet again, with the old ambivalence of love and hate, and with all the old guilts, the blood brothers of our childhood…..

Cumberland River

calmer waters

A moment’s contemplation on the Cumberland River, Nashville. Quietly and anonymously absorbing the day’s new knowledge. The people on the bridge give you a sense of scale.

Tennessee sunset

Leaving Nashville

Giving in to my obsession with sunsets, I made an ill-advised and sudden manoeuvre to pull in and capture this amazing Tennessee sunset. Let’s face it. Some things you only see once!

Country Roads

Highway 11

For me the essence of a road trip is the experience of taking in the character and variety of the host country’s roads. That’s why, on the trip in 2016, I avoided the congested and featureless Interstates. As I drove along this stretch of Highway 11 (aka Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway) with the stubborn taste of boiled peanut in my mouth (see post ‘Lost in Translation’), I was struck by the unspoilt beauty of this part of America. It was relaxing, as driving ought to be but rarely is. I found my thoughts drifting to the hotel from the night before. It was in a nondescript small town named Duncan. It was a one night stay so we opted for a low budget, no frills establishment. The room had been booked online. At check in the teenage girl, arms heavily tattooed with scripture (kid you not), informed us that it was a smoking room. I pointed out that a non smoking room had been booked. To which she replied, “it’s the only room left but I can give you a can of Febreeze”. Can’t say fairer than that!

Bald Rock

It may sound like a stupid thing to say but I used to wonder where the Blue Ridge Mountains got their name. Standing on Bald Rock, adjacent to Caesar’s Head State Park SC, the answer became obvious. This view was of the southernmost reaches of the Blue Ridge mountain range which stretches all the way from the Carolinas, Georgia and Tennessee, up through Maryland to Philadelphia. The trees release isoprene into the air which creates a distinctive haze and a blue hue. Hence the ‘blue’ in Blue Ridge. I think isoprene would be a preferable air freshener to Febreeze…

Lost in translation

I had always harboured the notion of a road trip in the USA. I thought if it ever happened it would be up the eastern seaboard or the west coast or maybe even the famous Route 66. As it turned out, my daughter decided to spend a year of her degree at the University of South Carolina and that was my road trip sorted. We travelled through Georgia, South Carolina, Tennessee and Alabama. The cultural gaps were many but this photo will always remind me of one of those moments when you feel 2 feet tall. After leaving our daughter we started off on the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway (Highway 11). I had seen a few signs for boiled peanuts and was feeling peckish since we hadn’t had any breakfast that morning. So when I saw this colourful roadside stand, I had to stop. Being Irish, i usually only eat nuts once a year at Halloween. Monkey nuts. The ones that you crack the shell open and eat the nut. The friendly peanut seller explained that they boil them until they are soft enough to eat but you have to let them cool down first. I paid for a cupful and, with Mr peanut seller looking on, I proceeded to blow on my first ever boiled peanut. When I was satisfied that it had cooled down enough I popped it in my mouth. As I chewed the fibrous mulch I wondered how anyone could eat anything this disgusting! But not wanting to offend the man, I tried to disguise my grimace as a smile. “You like that”? he asked. “Yes” I lied. Then in a typical southern drawl he said “ain’t never seen no one eating em shells an’ all! But if it works for ya…”. My humiliation complete, I bade him farewell and went on my way. You can take the man out of Belfast but you can’t take Belfast out of the man!

Son of Protagoras

Occasionally I will take a walk through Belfast city centre on a Sunday morning. The shops and businesses don’t open until 1.0pm. It provides an opportunity to move at a slower pace. You can also take in some of the amazing street art. Having said that, Belfast is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination. Consequently, the Sunday morning streets aren’t as quiet as they used to be. This mural was painted by the artist Mateo (aka MTO) on a gable wall in Belfast in 2014. The boy is holding a dove that has been slewn by the twin arrows that represent both sides of the religious divide. His message, I guess, is that adherence to a particular religious identity can contribute to the demise of peace?

Update January 2025. Although religion is often blamed for being the cause of wars, it’s never that simple. Religious belief is often a flag of convenience. It is used as a cover for perpetrators of acts of war. They use it to absolve themselves of blame and deflect criticism. The sad truth is that wars are created, sustained and facilitated by entities whose aim is to, first of all, exercise control of a country or region and then exploit that place’s resources to increase their own wealth and power. We only have to look at the trail of global destruction and carnage that has resulted from colonialism. Nowhere is this more evident in 2025 than in Palestine. The evidence is there for all to see. Few nations have suffered such a long and protracted onslaught as the Palestinian people have done since the beginning of the 20th century. I read an article many years ago and the author described ‘peace’ in the Middle East as ‘a bleeding dove’. When i saw the mural of Son of Protagoras, it seemed an appropriate name for my website. A mournful acknowledgement of the fragility of the world and a humble nod to the suffering of its people.

Mountains of Fire

In dreams

Believe it or not, this shot was taken through the window of a moving tour bus as we travelled through the Montañas Del Fuego on the island of Lanzarote. The clarity and almost artificial quality reminded me of the illustrations in the ‘World Book Encyclopedia’ that I retreated to so often as a child. The depictions were many but my favourites were the ones of the states of the USA. As a child I ignored the statistics of geography, climate, population etc. and found myself transfixed by the dreamlike images contained in those volumes. Escapism takes many forms but that set of books was, in my opinion, money well spent by my parents. It’s sad to think that the word ‘encyclopedia’ will soon become obsolete….

Lake Berkley moment

Morning glory

Central Florida is famous for Disney and the commercialisation that goes with it. But it was also the place where I captured this spectacular sunrise, thanks to my wife who seized the opportunity to get me out of bed. I don’t usually do early starts on holiday!

Reborn

Time to reflect

Belfast’s harbour district, like many around the world, went into decline along with the shipbuilding industry. I found the deserted wharfs and derelict buildings a strangely therapeutic place. Somewhere to escape the crowds. A breathing space where my thoughts were uninterrupted. Today the area is undergoing a revival, with redevelopment taking place at a steady rate. Warehouses are being transformed into trendy waterfront apartments etc. I suppose it’s part of a regeneration that on balance is a good thing. Still, part of me misses the deserted quays. Respite is found in unexpected places.

Obel Tower

New Horizons

Fire in the sky.

Through the years, I spent a lot of time here in Donegal on the NW coast of Ireland. It’s ironic that one of the most neglected regions on the island of Ireland is probably the most beautiful. The sky undergoes dramatic changes and the sunsets are unmatched.