Tag: Costa Brava

Cadaqués. The Gift of the Costa Brava.

Time of visit: October 2025

Cadaqués is a town in the province of Girona, Catalonia, on Spain’s Costa Brava and sits on a bay in the middle of the Cap de Creus peninsula.

Its name is derived from the Catalan, Cap de quers (Cape of Rocks). It is just over a 2 hour drive from Barcelona and 90 minutes from Perpignan in France. It has an official population of under 3,000.

If you are looking for a town that, in aesthetic terms, is the complete opposite of Pals (see previous post), Cadaqués is it. The predominant colour of the buildings in Cadaqués is white. The cluster of whitewashed houses with their terracotta rooftops, sits nestled on the rocky hillside that slopes down to the bay. The buildings appear to grow out of the rocks in a seamless extension of the land, with the church of Santa Maria dominating the skyline. Looking at the scene, the houses, the church, the boats on the pebble beach, the sea, it appears as if all the elements have evolved together and merged to become one. Everything looks like it belongs. There is nothing that doesn’t fit.

The seafront of Cadaqués. The buildings use nature’s best foundation, solid rock.

View from across the bay.

The best way to enjoy this overview of the town is to walk along the seafront. Or if you have the time, take a boat tour and savour a unique view from the sea.

Street charm in Cadaqués.

Heading inland, the narrow streets immediately take on an upward trajectory. Underfoot is a mixture of irregular shaped stone paving and small flat stones that have been embedded on their edge to provide extra grip. Navigating the town is best done by following a general rule of thumb, ‘keep climbing until you reach the top’. If you head downhill, you will end up at the harbour.

Small shops blend in with the adjoining houses.

The streets of Cadaqués are similar to many other Spanish towns and villages-whitewashed and winding, with wrought iron balconies draped with colourful splashes of bougainvillea and geraniums. The occasional shop appears every now and then, discreetly blending in with the house next door, differentiated by local handicrafts hanging at the entrance.

Bougainvillea adding colour and life to the stone.

A short time after starting our ascent, we were at the church of Santa Maria. There is no grand approach, just another turn at the end of another narrow street and we were in the small plaza outside the church. A musician sitting on a bench playing classical guitar added an extra layer of serenity to the place. And looking down over the rooftops at the sun glinting on the Mediterranean, completed a very Catalonian experience.

View from the plaza at the church of Santa Maria.

The rooftops of Cadaqués.

The church of Santa Maria.

The biggest surprise for me about Cadaqués was that I had never heard of it. And I haven’t met anyone else who was familiar with it either. It really is the best kept secret on the Costa Brava. I read an article about the town in a magazine called ‘Tapas’. It contained the following quote,

“Be careful, lest you get caught by the tramuntana. Be careful, many people arrive for three days and stay for years. Be careful, lest you fall in love with Cadaqués”.

The Tramuntana is a strong north-westerly wind that blows through Cadaqués. And whether the wind blows you here or you arrive in a more conventional way, don’t be surprised if you want to stay for just a while longer..

Summer beach vibes in October.

A place for everything and everything in its place.

Thanks for reading this far. If you’re interested, stay with me to read about Cadaqués’s most famous son, Salvador Dalí.

Cadaqués has a special place in art history and was a favourite of several famous names in the art world.

Marcel Duchamp, the French American artist and pioneer of the Avant Garde movement in America and New York in particular, spent time here.

Federico Garcia Lorca, Spanish poet and playwright who was assassinated by Francoists during the Spanish Civil War, was another well-known visitor, as was Picasso.

But Cadaqués’s most famous artist son is the surrealist, Salvador Dalí. His house is in Port Lligat bay on the outskirts of the town. His parents had a house nearby when Dalí was growing up and he spent his summers here. His childhood friends included future F.C. Barcelona footballers Emili Sagi-Barba and Josep Samitier. And during holidays here, the trio played football together. I was intrigued to discover that Lorca, the poet mentioned above, and Dalí had also been friends and I wondered how Dalí reconciled this friendship with his controversial support for the Franco regime.

Salvador Dalí, surrealist painter. Controversial, eccentric, unique.

 It was in the Port Lligat house, in 1931, that he created one of his most iconic paintings, The Persistence of Memory. The painting depicts clocks or watches that appear to be melting, inferring that time is fluid. One analyst wrote that Dalí was projecting his view of the world according to Einstein’s theory of special relativity (the relationship between space and time). When asked about this, Dali replied that his inspiration was the surrealist perception of Camembert cheese melting in the sun! The painting has resided in the MoMA in New York City since 1934.

The location of Dalí’s house in Lligat Bay. Picturesque and serene.

His house is now a museum but Dali’s abstract interpretation of the world is not something that is to my taste (or so I thought), so, with our time not being as fluid as his, a visit was ruled out. We did get a glimpse of his house from the road as we were heading back to town from Lligat Bay and if the exterior is anything to go by, the house may just be worth a visit as a unique experience.

Close up of Dalí’s house, complete with giant eggs and steel heads..

Two heads are better than one. A view from the road overlooking Dali’s house.

As I reach the end of this piece, I find myself having a change of heart. I may have been hasty in dismissing him as just a ‘kooky’ painter. I am no art expert but the more I look at ‘The Persistence of Memory’, the more intrigued I am by the thought process behind his work. He has been described as a self promoting charlatan by some of his contemporaries. Others describe him as a technically brilliant genius. If I ever return to Cadaqués, I think I will pay a visit to the Dalí museum and maybe get an insight into the mind and work of this bizarre genius and hopefully reach my own conclusion.

See you next time..

Costa Brava-the rugged coast.

Time of visit: October 2025

We travelled to the Costa Brava in northeastern Spain with David’s Coaches, a company based in the Costa Blanca in the southeastern region of the country. The journey time was around ten hours, broken up by three comfort breaks. While ten hours may sound like a long trek, it wasn’t overly arduous. The scenery along the route, combined with our guide’s repertoire of interesting facts about the various regions we traversed, made it an enjoyable journey. Our itinerary on the five night stay included trips to Girona, Cadaques, Pals and Collioure. My original plan was to publish a piece once I had talked about all locations but to my surprise, retirement is busier than I anticipated and my writing time is limited. So, I will opt for installments, starting with Tossa de Mar, our base for the duration of our trip.

The beach at Tossa de Mar with its striking coloured boats against the backdrop of the old walled town.

A view of the old town from the Torre des Moros (Tower of the Moors) on Can Magí Mountain.

Tossa de Mar is a municipality in Catalonia, in the province of Girona (Gerona), northern Spain. Its history goes back beyond Roman times but the main architectural characteristics range from 12th century onwards. There is a definite hint of France in the air, not surprising since it is less than 100km from the French border. In more recent times, Tossa de Mar was a successful fishing town but in the 1950’s plans were created to develop the town to attract package holiday makers. And so, the daily catch these days is offloaded from buses instead of boats and consists of curious tourists like us, complete with phones, cameras and backpacks.

A catalyst for Tossa de Mar’s transformation came in the form of a Hollywood movie that was filmed here in 1950. It was called Pandora and The Flying Dutchman and starred Ava Gardner, James Mason and bullfighter Mario Cabré. Frank Sinatra also flew in to be with Gardner, reportedly in a jealous rage. In 1998 the town honored the actress with a bronze statue by Girona artist Ció Abellí.

Statue of Ava Gardner taking pride of place in the old town. The highly polished appearance of some parts of the statue is a result of excessive touching. Human behaviour is an enigma sometimes!

A couple taking time to embrace the moment.

Our hotel was a five minute walk to the beach and during that short stroll the streets change from modern and wide to ancient and narrow. It is a relatively compact town and you should be able to see the main sites in a day. The climb to the peak of the old walled town (the Catalan translation is Vila Vella) provides stunning views and is accessible via paths and steps. Unfortunately these may not be adequate for wheelchair users.

Faro de Tossa (Tossa lighthouse) provides a good vantage point from which to view the old walled town and beyond.

The 12th century remnants of the Gothic style church of Saint Vincent.

Tossa de Mar framed by the majestic Stone Pines.

The rocky outcrops that may have inspired the name Costa Brava, Rugged Coast.

No rush here.

The narrow cobbled streets exude charm and the pace is relaxed. Friendly locals working in the shops, bars and restaurants add to the chilled experience. I suspect these spaces may be less enjoyable in peak season during the summer, when the crowds are funneled into the narrow walkways.

Taking a break in the shade of the oleander bush (at least I think it was Oleander).

The character of Tossa de Mar old town is a rich and inspiring one.

One observation I have made in recent times is the surge in ‘selfie tourism’ and Tossa de Mar was awash with selfie seekers. Even in the off peak season there are significant numbers of people striking a dramatic pose at the end of a selfie stick, trying for all their worth to appear nonchalant as they stroll through the narrow streets while a partner records the scene. I find the serious ones the most amusing. The ones who turn up in a flowing designer dress and heels, more suited to a night at the Oscars, and repeat the shoot until they get a result they are happy with, all the while oblivious to the presence of others. I wonder how much of the location is lost on them because they only seem to want a backdrop that will generate views and likes. I also wonder what the old fishermen would make of it all! As I was writing the last couple of sentences, it occurred to me that I sound like a grumpy old man. And maybe that’s the natural way of things. When we are faced with behaviours that are alien to us, we tend to be critical. A note to self-different people enjoy different things! Each to their own. Live and let live etc.

Speaking of which, for those who enjoy walking, Tossa de Mar is on the route of El Camino de Santiago de Compestella (in Catalan, El Cami de Sant Jaume). The subject of the Camino has come up in conversation several times over the years but the closest we’ve ever come to actually doing it, is posing for photographs at the famous scallop markers that direct pilgrims. One of the ladies in the photo below (not saying which one) even bought a hat to wear when her time came to do it. She has subsequently decided that she would be accompanied by too many flying insects and she’s not a big fan of our winged friends. Still, I’m sure the hat will enjoy a suitable debut some day..

If asked what I liked most about Tossa de Mar, it would be the same answer that applies to towns and villages all over Spain. Apart from the simple reward of seeing somewhere for the first time, the enjoyment for me is twofold. Firstly the aesthetic. When I see an old town like Tossa de Mar, I see an ochre stone canvass painted with the colours of the bougainvillea and oleanders, capped with terracotta rooftops. The play of light on the stone. The shadows in the narrow passages, moving slowly across the cobbles, synchronising with the sun as it sinks lower in the sky.

Secondly, I am always intrigued by the human aspect of the place. Who are the owners of the craft shops and galleries? Have their families lived here for generations? What would it have looked like in the days before mass tourism, when the only people making their way through the streets were fishermen and their families? A time when, instead of shops and cafes, there were bakers and net menders. When I ask myself these questions it reminds me that no matter where we go, places are defined by the people who inhabit them. It’s what gives a place soul.

It’s all about the people. This local knows how to blend in. I had taken several photos of this scene before I realised he wasn’t part of the boat’s gear.

Would I recommend Tossa de Mar as a place to visit? Definitely! It’s the perfect base to explore the region. The nearest major airport is Barcelona. Regarding accommodation, I would have no hesitation in recommending The Golden Bahia hotel. Its setting is unremarkable but its location is perfect. The room was clean and comfortable. The food was varied, fresh and of high quality. The staff were extremely friendly and welcoming and a surprising number of them were multilingual. Like everywhere, it can be expensive in peak season but there are offers to be had if you are prepared to visit off season. A lot of the guests were repeat visitors from Ireland, Britain and mainland Europe. A hotel that can continually please such a diverse grouping is doing something right!

View from our hotel room, overlooking the pool area of Golden Bahia.

Next installment coming soon…