It’s easy to feel that you have a personal connection to the sunrise. Even when you know it can be seen by everyone. And so, when we get up and go to a particular place to enjoy it and hopefully photograph it, I usually find myself with mixed emotions. I see other people (not many) with the same idea as me and feel resentment that they are crashing my party. My time with MY sunrise. On the other hand, I feel reassured that I am not alone in my appreciation of what is arguably the most precious part of the day.
Please meet some of the dawn fraternity…
I pulled into this deserted street near La Zenia beach just before sunrise. As I took the photo I couldn’t help but think the couple in the shot resented me. Probably because I was crashing their party. Their time with THEIR sunrise!
Some mornings disappoint because of cloud cover but the uncertainty is half the joy. After a dull start, my long suffering wife was rewarded with an inspiring sunrise at Playa Flamenca, Orihuela Costa.
This is probably one of my favourites. From a technical perspective, it’s nothing special but I think it has a cinematic feel. Something almost nostalgic about it.Playa Flamenca, Orihuela Costa.
The sun appearing about 10 minutes after sunrise on the coastal path at Cabo Roig. The first jogger of the day coming into shot.
A very cold morning at La Zenia, Orihuela Costa. Alone with her thoughts. This time of day is an opportunity in a frenetic world to find some quiet space.
A lone walker on La Zenia beach. Not many better ways to start the day. And depending on the time of year, this is the only time it is possible. In summer, the daytime temperatures and crowds make it a less enjoyable experience.
Partial reveal. That touch of magic when the rising sun slowly appears above the misty horizon at Playa Flamenca. The patience of the expectant watchers paying off.
There is never any interaction between the morning people, apart from the odd polite nod. A hesitancy exists among the multinational strangers. One unsure of the language spoken by the other. But as the sun rises in the sky and reaches an intensity that is impossible to look at, and as the morning people make their way to their various homes to get on with their days, they can be sure of one thing. They all share a common language. One that has no words. Rather, one that consists of a shared wonder and appreciation of the yellow star that sits at the centre of our solar system and the magic it performs every morning.
Lake Como is situated in the Lombardy region of Italy. Formed by glacial processes, it has a distinctive inverted Y shape. It’s the third largest of the Italian Lakes (146km2) after Lake Garda and Lake Maggiore. It is also one of the deepest lakes in Europe at 400m.
The lake sits at the base of the Alps and its shores are punctuated with picturesque villages and luxury villas. This is one of the most scenic locations we have ever visited. With the dramatic backdrop of the Alps and the striking coastal landscape, it’s no wonder this has been the setting for many movies, including Hitchcock’s debut film, The Pleasure Garden (1925), Star Wars: Episode 2 (2002), Ocean’s Twelve (2004) and Casino Royale (2006).
This house is part of Richard Branson’s site. It’s his gardener’s house!
Our hotel was on the lakeshore at Tremezzo and watching boats of all descriptions, from yachts to water taxis, on the lake was a pastime of dreams.
Tremezzo. One of the many ferries that carries passengers to the various towns and villages. Photo taken from the hotel roombalcony.
The cobbled lanes behind the hotel revealed lots of villas tucked away.
Not to mention some impressive views over the lake.
The setting sun painting the Alps in evening tones. View from the hotel room balcony.
Although there are many towns and villages dotted around the shores of Lake Como, we only had time to visit four: Bellaggio, Varenna, Lenno and Como. Each one had their own unique appeal and I would recommend a visit to all of them.
Bellaggio was probably the most polished town we visited.
Bellaggio’s steep cobbled streets were lined with shops of every description. From jewellery to glass to silk, for which the region is famous.
Both a shopper’s paradise and a photographer’s dream.
Streets full of character.
The next ferry is never far away.
One of the many artisans in Bellaggio, specializing in glass. Including an eye catching range of coloured glass balloons.
While the narrow cobbled streets cater for the shoppers, the lake front offers a wide range of eateries.
Lunch by the lake.
As close as you can get to the lake without being in it!
If Bellaggio is the most polished town, Varenna has to be the most picturesque. It is situated approximately 15 minutes, by boat, from Bellaggio. Stepping off the boat it soon becomes obvious that Varenna lacks the elegance of Bellaggio but if it lacks elegance, it overcompensates with charm and rustic beauty.
Varenna. Capturing this scene was a long standing goal of mine. The combination of lighting conditions and the vibrant colours resulted in a photo with a postcard feeland made the wait worthwhile.
Varenna invokes the same question as other locations on the lake. Is it a town or a village? It seems too small for the former and too big for the latter. Whatever its status, it oozes history and character. There is no shortage of cafes and restaurants from which to enjoy the atmosphere and watch the world (and endless tourists) go by. A climb up one of the many steep side streets provides an escape from the bustle of the harbour and a glimpse of what everyday existence is like for the locals-unhurried and peaceful.
Another 15 minute boat ride, heading south from our hotel in Tremezzo, brought us to Lenno. While not as striking as Bellaggio or Varenna, market day in Lenno has a pleasant ambience. The stalls stretch from the small square in the village down to the waterfront, so if market shopping isn’t your thing, you can always just admire the small boats that are moored in front of the stalls.
Lenno. Boats moored at the jetty.
Market stalls versus boats. I know which I prefer!
Two hours in Lenno is probably enough unless you stay for a coffee or something to eat. The local church of St Stephen was an interesting and unexpected find and is worth a look. As well as the intricate frescoes, there is a crypt that is accessed from steps in the main body of the church. It dates back to the 12th century and has been impressively preserved. No mean feat, given that it is below the water level of the lake!
Frescoes and stained glass adding colour and interest.
St Stephen’s underground crypt.
Como was our first trip by bus. Although it is accessible by boat, its position at the southwestern tip of the lake would have meant a 2 hour boat journey. Unlike the previous locations, Como’s status is obvious. It’s most definitely a city. It is the administrative capital of the Province of Como and has a population of 84,000. Como has lots to offer in terms of history, culture and arts, as well as the world’s oldest seaplane club.
The bustling harbour at Como.
However, we had decided to give priority to taking the funicular railway from Como to Brunate, a village that sits 500 metres above Como. The funicular operates via electric motor and cable, which pulls the train up the steep gradient. Despite leaving the station every 15 minutes, the popularity of the train means that you can expect to queue for 2 hours! We arrived around 10am and the line of people was already snaking its way along the waterfront. Our wait time was around 1.5 hours but the time went quickly as we chatted with two friendly women, Geraldine and Maura, who were also from Ireland.
The upper station on the Como-Brunate funicular railway.
Spectacular views over Lake Como if you’re lucky enough to get a front row seat.
Brunate. The train journey is just over 1km long and takes 7 minutes but alighting at the other end feels like entering a new country. The chalet type houses and quiet lanes, draped in wisteria, portrayed a Swiss vibe.
The serene cobbled lanes of Brunate.
A mix of Swiss, German and Italian architecture give Brunate a unique character.
No crowds here. Probably due to the steep climb.
The church at Brunate.
Pencho Slaveykov. Bulgarian poet, writer and philosopher. 1866-1912.
While walking past the church in Brunate, I noticed a commemorative plaque on a wall. It was mostly in Cyrillic script, which I don’t understand. Later that evening in the hotel, I looked him up and discovered a fascinating individual whose life had been dictated by one unfortunate event.
At the age of 18, Pencho fell asleep on a bench during a heavy snowfall. He contracted pneumonia which left him unable to walk without a cane and he had difficulties speaking and writing. He suffered from melancholia and he turned to literature in search of a cure. His work as a poet and philosopher led to extensive travel throughout Europe but his main goal was to find a cure for his condition. After travelling through Italy and Switzerland, he returned to the mountains in Italy. He arrived in Brunate in late May, 1912. He died on 10th June and was buried in the local cemetery. In 1921 his remains were repatriated to his homeland.
In a cruel twist of fate, he had been nominated for a Nobel Prize. Because of his death, the nomination wasn’t considered.
In 1903 Pencho began a relationship with another poet, Mara Belcheva and they remained together until his death. Although they never married, he always referred to her as his wife. They are both depicted on the Bulgarian 50 lev banknotes that were issued in 1999 and 2006. His story was an unexpected and poignant discovery for me. One which gave this picturesque village a very human dimension.
Volta Lighthouse. In and around the station at Brunate, we saw signs for a shuttle bus to Volta Lighthouse but it wasn’t obvious if the bus was operating, so we decided to walk. This was the steepest climb yet and the ground was uneven in places. The distance to the lighthouse is about 1km but it took at least 30 minutes to walk because of the slow pace and frequent stops to catch our breath. Volta Lighthouse sits on a hill in San Maurizio, a tiny village with an elevation 150 metres above Brunate. The lighthouse is named after Alessandro Volta, a chemist and physicist and native of Como. He invented the electric battery and discovered methane.
Volta Lighthouse with its distinctive octagonal shape.
The view from Volta Lighthouse
The walk back to the funicular was almost as challenging as the ascent to the lighthouse and my knees felt it. Before we knew it, our day was at an end. I think Como has a lot more to offer but I’m glad we used our time in the way we did. It was a unique experience and one which may not be possible when the knees are a few years older! We got the bus back to our hotel but it was a long wait because at least two buses didn’t turn up. My recommendation would be to take the ferry and spend two hours on the lake taking in the scenery at a leisurely pace.
Thoughts and tips.
Getting around. The best, and cheapest way to travel to and from the various towns and villages on Lake Como is by boat. There is a wide choice of boat, from ferry to high speed hydrofoil, shuttle boat and water taxi. A Mid Lake day pass costs 15 euro, which allows you to visit all the locations above except Como.
On the water is the fastest, cheapest and most enjoyable mode of transport on Lake Como.
Climate. Lake Como is in the Prealp region. In other words, it sits at the foothills of the Alps and is prone to a range of weather influences. Combined with the effects of evaporation from the lake itself, the region can be humid and rain or low cloud are not uncommon. While summer temperatures may be more predictable, we experienced a wide range of temperatures and weather conditions. If you’re visiting in Springtime, bring layers to allow flexibility.
People. From shopkeepers to bus drivers, I found the Italian people very friendly. Not surprisingly, due to the volume of tourists, everyone spoke at least some English, which made communicating straightforward.
Food. I’m no food critic and most of our meals were included in the hotel booking. The general standard was good and as far as I could tell, prices were reasonable.
Would I go back? Yes.But I think a return trip would be as independent travellers. This was an organised trip, booked through a travel agent. However, my personal preference is independent travel and the freedom and flexibility that brings. One of the greatest pleasures I experienced was sitting on the balcony of the hotel room with a glass of wine, watching the boats on the lake. It was a relaxing and therapeutic ‘activity’. But that didn’t happen often because we were usually out on the various coach tours that were part of the package. As I (half) jokingly remarked one afternoon, “I know it’s not a practical, realistic or healthy aspiration but day drinking on the shores of Lake Como is my idea of the perfect pastime!”
Some more photos...
One of the many boat stops around Lake Como.
Sightseeing boat near Lenno.
Colourful Varenna.
Light and shade in the quiet lanes above Tremezzo.
San Giovanni oozing charm. This was visible from our hotel across the lake. At night the tower was illuminated with a red spotlight.
Bleeding Dove 